Climbing Techniques to Improve Heart Rate Training for Extreme Climb Ability

You are planning to challenge your target rock wall, a 90-foot long line, and the eleventh block is an annoying difficulty, a small clasp (can only bend the palm of your hand with a fingertip) . Again and again, when you climbed into this, you have reached the limit of your body: your feet start to get messy and your arms are bent into chicken wings. . . In the end, you are like a hungry wolf, fighting hard, but once again on the rope. Maybe it's because you're already tired or you've made a mistake, but you don't know that heart rate is very much related to failure. When we are tense, the heart rate is directly related to the stability of the mindset (and thus the technology), but also to our motor skills and recovery ability. If we compare climbing to a train, heart rate is the engine that drives him. Therefore, it goes without saying that using a heart rate monitor in training can be useful.

Last December, I took a heart rate monitor for the first time under the guidance of Juston Sjong. He is a leader in freestyle climbers in the United States and a rock climbing instructor. Sjong took me on a boulder and quickly reported my heartbeats per minute: "160,165,175,180..." When I took a big shot, he stopped the machine and let me hang it there. "Okay, now bring your heart rate down," he said softly. So I began to take regular deep breaths, relax my body and look down to ease my eye tension. Gradually, the heart rate has dropped and the arm congestion is weakening. From that moment onwards, I realized that the heart rate data is more representative of the health of the body than the V difficulty level or the difficulty division of 5 points.

Before climbing the magical mushroom, Sjong himself also trained with a heart rate detector. In 2008, he and Tommy Caldwell used freestyle climbing to complete the knotted line on the chief rock. It was divided into 28 sections with difficulty as 5.13d/14. "The health benefits of the heart rate measurement training method are obvious," Sjong said. "In addition, my ability to cope with stress has also been exercised, which is crucial to conquer the magic mushroom line." This training method guides you through the following three ways to improve your climbing ability.

1. Training at the best intensity

Why: If your training intensity is optimal, then your stamina will increase, you will be able to climb better and complete more difficult routes. (Insufficient training will not work, and overtraining will exhaust you.) Using heart rate monitoring can help you find and maintain this level of heartbeat.

Method: First find your ultimate heart rate. Sjong's suggestion is to repeatedly climb a familiar line that is close to your extreme level, without resting until exhausted. Doing so will cause your heart rate to peak; 10 to 25 less than this peak is your best training heart rate. You can then continue to train at this heart rate (see the example given in “Best Training Program” below) to enhance your constitution. Your ultimate heart rate will accelerate over time, along with your ability to easily recover at higher heart rates.

2. Rest and Recovery (R&R)

Why: Rest is crucial. When you need to lower your heart rate, most climbers are stuck with the wrong thing. They wave their arms to “reduce congestion.” Take advantage of your heart rate monitor to see how it really relaxes.

Method: Prof. Sjong's R&R method is a five-step challenge.

1) After climbing to no strength, sit down and focus on lowering your heart rate.

2) After completing a climb, before the descent, the recovery begins at the top of the line.

3) Learn to predict your own peak heart rate so that you can rest before your heart rate gets out of control (when climbing, the state of congested heart will hardly subside after full heart operation).

4) When the heart rate differs from the full load heart rate within 10 times, you should rest on a large point.

5) Even a small break before the passing point cannot be missed.

In order to fully relax at the break, Sjong recommends using "1 degree breathing": inhale deeply, hold it, hold for half a second, exhale, and repeat - completely through the mouth.

Breathing is a key factor in the success of climbing - our oxygen - intake and carbon dioxide - discharge is done through breathing, which to a certain extent determines whether we can reach the top. When we feel scared, we usually hold our breath or breathing disorder, creating tension and intensifying congestion. In fact, the breathing in the rest position is no less than the size of the rest point.

The first step in mastering breathing control is to understand the correct method. Usually we have a misunderstanding of understanding: I think that holding my breath is always wrong, or I think that when climbing, I should always do a slow, deep breath. In fact, we should alternate between different degrees of breathing. Each type of breath will have a different effect on the body and mindset, and it is a skill that the climber should possess.

Justen Sjong's four breathing methods — whether he teaches students or climbs Yosemite’s free routes — follow this method – and explain how to choose which type of breathing and why.

1 degree breathing - abdominal breathing. This level of breathing can restore both body and mind. Abdominal breathing is a slow, deep breath that allows the lungs to fill and help lower the heart rate. Since abdominal breathing can only be completed when it is relaxed, it can only be achieved when the body is comfortable and non-stressed. What's more worth mentioning is that abdominal breathing is the foundation - climbers can only effectively breathe 2-4 degrees if they learn it. Bear in mind that when rock climbers spend 2-4 degrees breathing for long periods of time, their mindset, skills, and posture will become messy.

2 degree breathing - oppressed breathing. Also known as "strength - long-lasting breathing," oppressed breathing is often used in climbing segments that contain 12 more difficult movements. This compression deep breathing method is faster than abdominal breathing, supporting rock climbers to switch between tension and relaxation. By mastering the balance between stress and relaxation and using it properly, each climber can develop a climbing rhythm that overcomes difficulties.

3 degree breathing - strong breathing. Also called "screaming breath," when the rock climber screams, the chest air is squeezed out and the body will spontaneously make a short breath. This type of breathing is best used when a small amount of difficulty is required (1 to 5 movements).

4 breaths - not breathing. This is done only when the body needs extreme tightness, in order to reach the limits of physical tension, such as high difficulty or points of need for deadlock. However, rock climbers often hold their breath under false circumstances, such as fear, and doing so is counterproductive.

3, stable

Reason: Even if the limit heart rate is less than 20 to 30 times, the exercise ability (note: skill and mentality stability) will decline. "Your vision is beginning to become limited, and vision will move between different points." Sjong said. "If your technical movements are distorted, you have no chance." (This is largely the same as our instinctive fear - see Climbing Magazine No. 275, p. 56 on "Terrorism" (for fear "Fear") is defined.)

Method: When training, find a partner to help you read out the heart rate monitor readings. He can help you judge when your actions become turbulent and hastily. Once you have entered this state, use the following steps to correct your climbing action:

1) Pick up your lips and breathe loudly. In order to remind yourself of the rhythm of breathing.

2) Straighten your arms and save effort when climbing.

3) Look calmly and steadily observe various points to find the optimal order.

4) To accurately step on the foot, use your eyes to look at the contact between the toe and the point.

5) Use your legs instead of your arms.

Training intensity should be appropriate

The following are the basic routines of Justin Sjong's HRM training. You can do this twice every week for two or three weeks, and do this twice a week (to complement or replace your daily training).

1) Determine your best training heart rate.

2) According to your own health and ability level, climb 3 to 5 simple lines as a warm-up and keep your heart rate below 130 to 150.

3) Cut into your best training range and climb the line that will make your heart rate reach the desired value. Take 8 as the impact target. (Sjong's proposal is to have no intermittent super group training every 2 or 4 lines.)

4) Climb a few easy lines as a relaxation.

Responsibility editor: Xuantian

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