Interview with perfume bottle designer: Pierre Dinand
Pierre Dinand's office is located in a Parisian block called Passage de l'Hirondelle. He dubbed it "The Swallow Alley." This narrow street is located in an old part of Paris, named after the mistress of François I. It is said that The woman flies like a swallow among men. Pierre Dinand and his son Jerôme have lived here since 1983 and his grandson was born here. Pierre Dinand laughed softly: "This is a family portrait." It can be said that Pierre Dinand's perfume is like Keith Richards's rock music...He is a healthy, well-dressed old man: black T-shirt, long white hair, quick thinking, he will Smile quickly and throw a joke. Pierre Dinand worked with the most outstanding creators. He designed more than 500 perfume bottles, many of which have become classics. With years of water, he has not changed and is still a charming, open man. How did your career start and how did you do it? Pierre Dinand: I was sent to Indochina at the time of 20. Because I can speak English and German at the same time, I became a small officer and I had the opportunity to study architecture at the Royal Academy of Arts in Cambodia. It is actually a club in the Mediterranean... except for the occasional gunfire... I was very fortunate to be able to study the marginal knowledge of Indian art and Chinese art, as well as the fact that the locals sculpted small items, which cultivated me to craft small things. Hobby. My architectural knowledge is very helpful to my design work... A perfume bottle is actually similar to a small house. This is how I started. I insisted on it for almost 50 years. Now they say I am a living legend... (It seems Pierre Dinand has doubts about this) Almost everyone is calling you like this - a living legend. How do you feel about this honorable name? This is what the reporters said, but it does not mean that much... The only thing that can be considered legendary is the number of legendary female designers and outstanding designers who have worked with me. In other words, at the beginning of your career, you began to work with some big-name designers, right? My first client was Elsa Schiaparelli. She introduced me to Hélène Rochas, Mrs. Hélène Rochas, and introduced me to the Balenciaga Balenciaga, Saint Laurent Saint Laurent, Givenchy Givenchy... and I worked directly with them. There is no marketing staff in the middle. I don't need to advertise, perfume bottle design has not existed as an industry. The news circulating at that time was that a young man was very interested in the bottle. The young man was me. Then everything started. The perfume bottle model of the year was made of plaster and not very attractive. Now it is generally a model of plexiglass. They are more attractive... I founded a studio that can process plexiglass well. For example, a creative design in the morning can be used to create a corresponding model by the end of the day. Are you the first perfume bottle designer to work with an American brand? How did you start? As early as the 1960s, I passed the United States. At that time, my working boss, Albert Gosset (the senior leader of Rochas Rosa brand) told me: If there is no idea to go to the United States, then nothing will happen. In the shopping mall there, a small company's products were placed and attracted my attention. This small company is Estée Lauder Estee Lauder. I mentioned it with Gosset and he smiled: Estée Lauder Estee Lauder? Don't think about it, it can never be popular! - This just shows that the French are too self-centered! Then I started working for groups in the United States, including Saint Laurent's company... (Note: Charles of the Ritz). In fact, before becoming French, Rive Gauche was a group committee from the United States. So I opened an office in the United States. I was the first one: no one competes! What about France in all that? It is not easy to be a living legend. You also know how to say: "A prophet has no honor in his country." In fact, most of my “excellent episodes†were done outside of France... I’ve worked in Puig’s office (note: Spanish group, owned by Paco Bana), designed Calandre for it, and others. At that time, the pesetas could not be exchanged for use, so I couldn't be paid or I could only use it in Spain... but I don't care, my clients are good and I'm responsible The project is also very charming! There weren’t many currencies that could be exchanged at that time, so when your work was mostly overseas, life was complicated. I even had a very interesting adventure. A Russian customer wanted to cooperate with me and even wanted to use weapons as money to pay! I have never experienced such a thing, so I refused... Continuing this topic, in the 1970s, when I designed the perfume of Paco Rabanne pour Homme, I was invited to work in Beijing and Shanghai, China. They paid me a sack of rice! It's all very interesting... Well, let's play a small game: I'll give you a fragrance to smell, you describe the perfume bottle. Madame Rochas Lady Rosa Perfume 1960 My first perfume bottle... At that time, no one used a bottle cap and only the cork, which was exposed, was not screwed on. That means that the perfume bottle can only maintain a standing posture. I had an intuition at the time that the lives of women were constantly evolving. So I went to the perfume bottle manufacturer Desjonquères (later bought by Saint-Gobain) and asked if they could produce perfume bottles with spirals. We made it together. This industrial perfume bottle is almost as beautiful as a handmade perfume bottle, but it is more practical and cheaper. Eau sauvage fresh water male perfume 1966 Working with Edmond Roudnitska is not easy! We get along well, but we are very firm about his perfume... If a customer asks him to change something, even if it is slight, he will refuse to discuss it. He insists on his originality. Together with him, it means either accept or discard! But history and market prove him right. Dior Dior perfume wants Eau Sauvage perfume to compete with Rochas's Moustache perfume. Moustache perfume originally wanted to be called Favori. Because Favori also contains the letters O\R and I, the name is precious to them - it has three letters of Dior. So Favori means an arrangement of "super Moustache" super mustaches. Do not! Calandre Women's Fragrance 1968 I applied galvanized plastic to this perfume bottle to give it a metallic look. If made with real metal, it may not have the same effect. This is the same technology used in the Logo logo of the car. I always like to study directly how things are made. For example, the logo on my old car Volkswagen was inspired by this... Opium Opium Women's Perfume 1977 This is a very dangerous project and one of my most proud projects. One day in September 1977, I was at a client meeting. The head of L'Oréal L’Oréal congratulated me by calling me: The perfume bottle I designed for Opium is out. Before that, I went through a long period of work, so I actually forgot about it. He invited me if I could see it in 5 minutes. Then he and his assistant appeared within 5 minutes of the phone call and gave it to a project of Lancome. Magie Noire started production six months later, which is very fast in perfume creation. Obsession Enchanting Perfume 1984 An interesting story behind Obsession's perfume bottle. I always like playing hockey. One day, at a golf course - I was never good at playing golden balls - I hit the ball with hockey. The effort was a bit heavy... actually it was heavy, then... I broke the ball! In the broken ball I saw a marble, some sort of plastic, but it looked more like glass. Then I thought: With its hardness and transparency, it is definitely a good material for perfume bottles. There was a sign of Dupont de Nemours on this ball, so I contacted them and requested to send a little material as a sample. Dupont de Nemours later sent over 200 pounds of material! After research, it was found to be a resin material called surlyn sarin. We use this material as the edge of the bottle to create a translucent effect. However, Sarin resin is not inert material, it will be dyed with the color of the perfume. So we decided to cover it with a good sealing material. It's like the opposite of a coin: You must be ready to meet all possibilities during the experiment! Perfume is like an animal and it is difficult to get caught in a cage. Pleasures Women's Fragrance 1995 Estee Lauder is a tough woman. The perfume bottle was designed according to her ideas, and the convex bottle cap was scratched. Turn the bottle slightly so that it looks like it is about to be opened. At that time, Est é e Lauder Estee Lauder perfume guidance of experts hired Calvin Klein Calvin Klein. I have worked with this expert on some of the most successful fragrances, including Obsession who are also replicating their success. She told Mrs. Estee Lauder that Pierre Dinand must be hired if he wants to have a big shocking effect on perfumes !
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