Acute mountain sickness
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Every person, even the same person, reacts differently to anoxic reactions each time they go uphill. Studies have shown that there is no direct relationship between a person’s physical fitness or the incidence of AMS. Although there is no accurate understanding of the causes of AMS, people have accumulated a large number of AMS cases from the experience of numerous skiers, travelers and climbers, and have had considerable experience in the pathogenesis, prevention and treatment of AMS.
Most people have symptoms more than 3,000 meters. The occurrence of AMS is directly related to the speed of the mountain. The most effective way to prevent AMS is to control it from low altitude to high altitude. If possible, the average daily rise is not more than 300 meters (so it is better to go to Lhasa from Golmud by car if there is no adjustment) but the personal situation is different. This seems to be a conservative figure, and it is likely that there will be a reaction beyond this figure, but not necessarily dramatic. And when climbing, it is often too slow for 300 meters a day because of considerations of weather season trips.
Headache and nausea are common symptoms of acute alpine reactions. The more prevalent view in the medical community is that these symptoms are caused by shortness of breath at high altitudes, excessive oxygen in the blood leading to carbonic acid, and mild brain edema caused by excessive carbonic acid. The result is headache and nausea.
Insomnia during sleep at night, and sometimes suffocation (the so-called Cheyne-Stokes respiratory symptoms) are also symptoms of acute mountain reactions. This impact on rest is sometimes more powerful than other factors.
Drinking plenty of water is very important to prevent and reduce symptoms. This sounds contradictory to preventing edema. However, drinking more water helps to urinate and relieve blood acidity. It is also helpful to reduce the salt in the diet and eat more carbohydrates. Using less water to prevent stagnant water, I am afraid that will lead to increased electrolyte concentration in the body, osmotic pressure is more unbalanced, so that the accumulation of water increased. The benefits of drinking more water for mountaineering have been confirmed by the practice of countless people. Examples can be found in many books. Don't smoke, hemoglobin wasn't enough when you just went up the mountain. The affinity of carbon monoxide and hemoglobin in the smoke is much higher than oxygen.
AMS is a general term for many alpine diseases, among which pulmonary edema (High Altitude Pulmonary Edema for short) and cerebral edema (High Altitude Cerebral Edema for short) caused by high elevations are rapidly and fatally dangerous.
Pulmonary edema is a massive infiltrate into the alveoli. Symptoms are: The patient is much more tired than usual, he is more fatigued than others, breathing is difficult (even when quiet), the lungs may have snoring and so on. Brain edema is the accumulation of water in the cranial cavity and oppresses the brain. Symptoms are mostly manifested in the consciousness: do not care about things, confused, irritability, weakened or lost balance (some like drunkenness), often fall and so on. Note that this is sometimes confused with confusion caused by hypothermia. If HACE and HAPE are not treated promptly, until the condition is serious, the patient will lose the ability to act within a few days and the shock will eventually die.
Although the hyperbaric oxygen chamber is effective for AMS treatment, it is difficult to have such equipment in the wild. The most effective treatment for HACE and HAPE is downhill. From an experience point of view, even a few hundred to one or two kilometer drops will be of significant help. There are many records in the mountaineering literature: When a certain person has AMS symptoms getting weaker and weak, and his teammates sent him to a camp a few thousand feet away, he has noticeably improved within a day or two, and almost completely recovered within a week...
The best solution to the reaction to high mountains is to prevent it. The speed of the mountain climb should not be too fast, so that the body has enough time to adjust the low oxygen pressure (adjustment process includes creating an altitude-adaptable amount of hemoglobin). Unless you plan to go downhill in the near future, you should adapt to marching in the climbing for more than 3000-4000 meters. It is better to go to a new height, go high during the day and work at night, and sleep at low altitude in the evening. . Take a deep breath on your way, marching rhythmically, and coordinate breathing and pace.
Reducing the amount of labor is also helpful in the prevention and treatment of AMS, mainly because of the lower partial pressure of oxygen in the blood during human activities, which produces a similar effect to the human body as low atmospheric pressure. Any person who is not adapted to control the workload. Don't just fly from the sea level to Lhasa. But giving a certain amount of work to the body at high altitudes is really an effective way of stimulating the body to adapt to heights. Therefore, the arrangement of adaptable marching and the construction of mountaineering camps can serve two purposes.
drug:
One of the main purposes of drinking more water is to say that it is for you to piss more. Many medicines that prevent altitude sickness are mainly diuretic and reduce the concentration of carbonic acid in the body.
note! Although the following medicines have a certain effect on the mountain response and many people use it regularly, people are not completely clear about their pharmacology. Some medicines have a complex effect. Look for this book that tells you about the high altitude response. Learn to find a knowledgeable doctor to ask clearly. I posted the drug name for reference only.
(Scientific name) Acetazolamide, Dichlorphenamide, Methazolamide, etc. Product brand name: Acetazolam, Ak-Zol, Apo-Acetazolamide, Daranide, Dazamide, Diamox, Diamox
Sequels, Neptazane, etc., the most commonly used name is DIAMOX. It is a sulfa drug. It is not used for those who are allergic to sulfonamides or who have poor liver and kidney function.
Aspirin can help relieve headaches and help sleep, but it also has cover symptoms and delays treatment. The symptoms of HAPE or HACE are found to respond promptly.
reference:
1 Ferreira and Grundy, _Dexamethasone in the Treatment of Acute
MountainSickness_, NEJM, VOl. 312, No 21, page 1390, 23 May 1985.
2 Oelz, Oswald, _A Case of High-Altitude Pulmonary Edema Treated with
Nifedipine_, JAMA, Vol257, No 6, page 780, 13 Feb 1987.
"Medicine for Mountaineering: Third Edition" edited by James A.
Wilkerson, MD, 1985, The Mountaineers, ISBN 0-89886-086-5.
"Medicine for the Outdoors" by Paul S. Auerbach, MD, 1986, Little, Brown and Company, ISBN 0-316-05928-5 (hc) 0-316-05929-3 (pbk).
"Wilderness Medicine" by William Forgey, MD, 1987, ICS Books, Inc., ISBN
0-934802-37-8"Mountain Sickness" by Charles S. Houston